New Zealand Garden Swap Newsletter

Article by Therese (nzsandersonia)

TIPS FOR GROWING TOMATOES

Pest resistance of each variety is represented by letters. The letter 'V' indicates that the tomato variety is resistant to 'Verticillium wilts'; 'F' stands for Fusarium wilt resistance, and 'N' for nematode resistance. Both Verticillium and Fusarium cause wilting of the leaves and nematodes are microscopic worms that attack, and eventually destroy a tomato plant's root system.

'Early tomatoes' are usually determinate in growth habit. Such varieties grow to a certain size, flower, and form fruit. These varieties do not have to be supported.

'Main season tomatoes' are almost always indeterminate in their growth habit. They display continuous growth and vigorous side shoot development. If given the chance they will form vines and so have to be supported.

From seed

Planting out and fruit production

One to rot, and one to grow One for the pigeon, one for the crow -Old English Planting Rhyme

A sheltered sunny site is essential for outdoor tomato production. The soil should be fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive, with a pH in the range 5.5 - 7.0. Well-rotted manure or other organic matter should be incorporated into the soil and a balance fertilizer added before planting. Tomatoes are susceptible to similar soil borne pests and diseases as potatoes and so rotate the site. Alternatively, plants may be grow in pots containing potting medium or in grow bags.

As tomatoes are easily damaged by frost wait until the spring weather is warm and the danger of frost has passed before planting the young plants in the garden. It is best if you introduce your young tomato plants to the great outdoors gradually.

Tall indeterminate types may be planted 40 to 45 cm apart alongside supports about 1.2 m tall.

The bush types can be planted between 30 to 45 cm apart and usually these do not require supporting, although a mulch layer or support so the fruit is not lying upon the ground will prevent soil from contaminating the fruit or attacked by slugs.

Side shoots of indeterminate types should be regularly removed at an early stage of development so that growth is directed into fruit production. Plants must be kept well-watered at all times and container-grown plants in particular will require feeding as fruit develops. Potash supply is particularly important for the development of flavour. Pollination can be encouraged by shaking the flower trusses every other day

Depending upon the location, it is advisable to stop further growth in late summer by removing the growing tip, leaving one leaf above the late formed trusses. Typically 3 to 5 trusses can be carried per plant grown out doors and the process of stopping will ensure that all will complete their development before the onset of colder weather. Remove lower leaves when they show signs of senescence. For maximum flavour fruit should be permitted to develop their full colour on the plant before harvesting. At the end of summer ripening of fruit can be accelerated by removing the stakes and laying the still-rooted plants on a layer of straw before covering with cloches.

Other tips for tomato growing

• Train your tomatoes up wigwams like the ones you make for your beans.
• To obtain a bumper crop of tomatoes, let one of the side stems grow and train it sideways at an angle. Nip out the other side stems as usual, treating the plant as a two-stemmed cordon.
• To give outdoor tomato plants extra roots to suck up moisture, plant them on their sides. Before planting remove all except the very top pair of leaves, then make a small trench, lay the plant on its side and gently bend the tip upwards above the soil surface as you fill in the trench. It will then form roots all along the underground stem. Put the support stake in place while you remember where the stem is located!